How To Put On A Dryer Belt

How To Put On A Dryer Belt – If your dryer is humming, the guide wheel may be worn. One sign that it’s an idle fence is a high-frequency whine (because the wheel rotates many times with each revolution of the drum). My GE Model DCVH515EF0WW dryer was louder than I thought it should be. I replaced the front drum but it still played. You can read how to install the front skid drum here:

When replacing the rear bearing, I decided to go ahead and replace the idler pulley and belt. Protect your…

How To Put On A Dryer Belt

How to identify your GE dryer model: Open the door and look at the bottom right edge of the dryer:

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If it’s an electric dryer like mine, you’re dealing with 220 volts. However, turn off the power before working to avoid electric shock.

Step 2: Remove the 3 Phillips screws on the back top edge of the front panel.

Once these three screws are removed, you can insert nails into the seam and slide the ring toward the back of the dryer.

Lift the front edge of the top panel, slide the panel forward and remove the top panel.

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You must disconnect the three wire connectors before proceeding. One is a PC-style parallel ribbon cable for the controls, one for the lights, and one for the door light switch (the last two have tabs that you have to lift up to disconnect):

I put one finger on the left side under the ribbon cable and the other on the right side of the black connector, twisted the connector and lifted it up to remove it. Be careful because you can destroy this tape. I took the dryer apart about 4 times and one of the clamps on the end that holds the black connector in place started to come loose. Be careful and lift the connector when climbing.

The other two connectors have a similar style where you have to lift the “latch” to disconnect them as shown below:

I made them easier to access by using a screw box on the front edge of the dryer as you can see below. Loosen but do not remove the lower front panel screws. If you don’t remove them enough, almost a quarter of an inch, you won’t be able to lift and fold the panel (I ran into this problem).

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After removing the upper screws of the front panel, it is necessary to press the front panel to the dryer and close the door of the dryer.

Lift the front panel and remove the two bottom screws that you removed in step 7. Be careful as the door must be open (in this case the front panel will have to fall forward).

While you’re here, you should check out the wheel slip. The direction of the drum is indicated by the arrows in the figure below:

This is what good OEM drum slides should look like, the top two should be dark material:

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These two were completely worn out. As you can see in the image below, the top and bottom frames are white. The top, if it is a factory replacement, should be a dark colored material. I bought 3rd party slides from Amazon and they were useless and wore out in less than a month because they were made of softer material. They were also loud. In any case, if the dryer is disassembled, you should replace them if they are worn:

If the drum guides are worn, be sure to replace them. I have the part numbers and all the steps to replace them (it’s easy) in my article here:

We have to remove the dryer drum to get to the bearing that is attached to the back of the drum, so we have to disconnect the belt from the idler pulley to release the drum from the dryer. You can see the idler pulley in the lower left corner above the fan:

If you shine a flashlight there and look into the triangular hatch, you will see this:

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To remove the seat belt from the seat belt, push to release the seat belt tension and remove the seat belt as shown below:

Move the belt to the right side of the belt and make sure it is not on the motor shaft:

Also, make sure that the belt is not twisted under the motor shaft, which is not visible in the picture below.

Use a pry bar to lift the back of the dryer, press the front edge with your fingers and slide the drum forward. If you haven’t removed the belt from the tensioner belt and the motor shaft, then you will have problems at this point. Here you can see how I hold the back of the drum:

How To Replace Ge Dryer Idler Pulley And Belt · Share Your Repair

While your vacuum cleaner is broken, you need to clean the inside of the dryer. A little leaked around the edges of our dryer:

The tension pulley moves straight. Here is a replacement for the original (yell0w). They were a little different, but the replacement fit perfectly on the shaft, and that’s the main thing:

One thing I would like to point out is that the nut will go further and further (very far) so you have to watch how tight you tighten it.

One thing to note is that the new belt will be shorter because the old one is stretched:

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Insert the drum into the belt with the ribbed side facing the drum and align the belt with the groove closest to the back of the drum (you can see the wear of the drum by the correct placement):

Hold the belt on the back of the drum and slide the drum into the body of the dryer. You will need the sides of the dryer to fit the drum between them.

Aligning the drum with the support so that the bearing snaps into place takes some patience. Be careful not to “cut” into the dryer elements with the bearings as they could be damaged. You will know you have inserted the bearing into the holder when the top of the drum has the gap shown below (and this image will help you when reinstalling the drum):

First, make sure the belt is properly aligned and centered on the drum. The belt should enter the slot closest to the back of the dryer with the pointed side of the belt towards the drum as shown below:

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This is how I set it up to access the belt and mount it to the motor and pulley:

The belt seems too short to me, but it fits. First put the belt on the motor shaft, then bend it down and thirdly slide the belt up and over the lug on the rim of the wheel:

If the belt is installed correctly, when the drum rotates (with the support of the front edges of the drum), the breather valve rotates because it is directly connected to the motor shaft:

You will need to screw the two bottom “grooves” over the two screws you loosened in step 7.

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If you angle the front toward the dryer, you will need to move the wire connectors out of the way of the drum, and you will also need to lift the drum to slide over the bearing assembly:

You will also need to line up the bent tabs on each edge of the front panel with the holes on the sides of the dryer. I had to shrink the sides of the dryer to make them even (both sides are the same):

These connectors only have one connection method, one has 3 wires and the other has 2, so you can’t mix them up:

The control panel has a notch on the bottom edge that rests on the metal tab of the dryer cover as shown below:

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Here’s the control panel mounted on the back cover (the arrows show where the control panel sits above the edge of the metal frame):

Reconnect the control panel ribbon cable. The female side (on the dryer) has a recess that fits over the part that comes out of the connector, so it only fits one way:

There are two “latches” that fit into the underside of the top metal panel (circled below). Place the back edge of the top panel on the top of the dryer and slide it back, centering it on top of the dryer, once it clicks into place you are ready to install

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