Brand New Rv Battery Dead

Brand New Rv Battery Dead – Running out of new RV batteries can be frustrating. I mean, batteries basically consist of lead plates and acid. How can it be bad right from the factory?

In fact, we have experienced quality control issues with many of the products we have purchased. “They don’t make them like they used to!” we all know the saying. Unfortunately, RV batteries are no exception and there have been reports of battery problems or batteries coming straight from the factory.

Brand New Rv Battery Dead

But aside from the battery itself being the problem, the cause of a dead battery can be anything from a loose wire to a dead battery. This article will discuss the common causes of a dead RV battery and what you can do about it, including:

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Whether you have an AGM, lithium or proven lead battery, the following causes and fixes apply.

Although the internal materials of each battery are different, they are all deep cycle batteries that work the same for your RV. Some have longer battery life, but if they are new they should be expected to work properly with your RV.RV battery.

The battery for your motorhome is the primary power source for most motorhome equipment and lights. A dead battery puts you in a difficult position to drive your RV even when connected to shore power. The first step to solving this problem is to find out why the RV battery is dead.

Step 1: Check if the battery is dead. RV batteries can drain quickly if they supply power. The battery may have been sitting there for a while and slowed down the discharge. When your RV is around you, it still moves a lot of stuff, including your radio and carbon monoxide detector. For the full list of what drains the battery, visit what drains the battery in travel trailers.

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First, check the voltage with a multimeter to check for a dead battery. If you have a voltage between 13.3v and 12v, the battery is considered charged and should not cause a battery problem. If you have a voltage below 12V, your battery is dead and needs to be charged

The easiest way to determine if you have a damaged or uncharged battery is to connect it to a separate charger. You will use a separate charger and not an RV inverter because you will be charging the battery separately from the RV.

To charge your RV battery, connect it to a maintenance charger and leave it on for at least 24 hours. A deep cycle battery can store a lot of power and charging it slowly and fully will allow us to see if there is a problem with the battery. This is not common, but deep cycle batteries can be overcharged. See my post on deep cycle battery overcharging. Even with solar panels, give the house a few sunny days to charge the batteries.

After 24 hours, unplug the charger and check the voltage. You should read a voltage of around 13V. If you are not getting 13V and your battery is still at or below 12V, the problem is most likely a bad battery or possible sulfation.

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Battery sulphation is a process that occurs when a lead acid battery is not fully charged for a long time or is left in a discharged state for a very long time. Even with a new battery, it can go without charging for a long time and cause sulphation.

Some battery chargers, like battery regulators, have sulfation settings that can help. To be 100% sure, you can take your battery to an auto parts store and they can check it with a load. They have tests for both car batteries and deep cycle batteries. The load test is quite accurate and will tell you if the battery is damaged or not. It will be disappointing to find out that the new battery is defective, but like any manufactured product, it happens.

If you get 13V or higher, that’s good news because the battery is probably just dead and needs a good charge. Reconnect the camper and see how the battery works. If the battery holds its charge while connected to shore power, your battery should be fine. If you get the same dead battery soon, this will take you to the next step. Discharge the battery

If you have gone through the process of charging and testing your RV battery but the battery is still discharging, the next step is to see what may be causing it.

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Step 2: Check for low battery. Above we have briefly touched on how the RV dominates many components even while it is there. Things like your radio and carbon monoxide detector can drain your RV battery in a matter of weeks. This is known as parasitic loading. They suck power like parasites and can leave you with a dead battery.

If you have a fully charged battery and it dies after a few weeks (when not connected to shore power), it could be discharging the battery from a parasitic load. To solve this problem, install the battery disconnect switch. This disconnect switch allows you to disconnect the battery from the motorhome and avoid unnecessary battery discharge. Battery terminals

Another reason your RV battery dies is a poor connection to your battery terminals. The RV jumps on the road and disconnects, especially your battery terminals. Any loose connections will cause your battery not to charge when connected to shore power, resulting in battery death.

Step 3: Check that the battery terminal connection is secure. Your battery (or jumper cable) must be securely connected to the battery terminal. These are bolts or screws that must be tightened manually with a screwdriver or wrench that does not have thread movement. Also make sure the terminals are clean and have a good metal-to-metal connection.

Dead Alternator. Again. This Time In The Rv

Battery problems, such as a dead battery in your new RV, can be a nuisance at the RV site. Some common causes of this dead state range from battery discharge to sulfates. It is important to go through the three steps to see if you have a faulty battery that needs replacing or if a bad connection or parasitic load has drained your RV battery.

Tony is a keen motorhome and motorhome traveller. He fell in love with camping on his first caravan trip with his wife over 25 years ago. Tony loves to share experiences and tips about RV care and safe travel. This article may contain affiliate links. All of our posts are written and reviewed by RV and outdoor experts. The Mortons on the Move writing team are all seasoned RVers and hikers. Additionally, Tom and Cait Morton review all articles with engineering and DIY backgrounds, are RV technicians, consultants, and live the RV lifestyle full time.

Batteries are the heart of most off-grid electrical systems, and RVs all have batteries. These batteries provide power when leaving land or when the generator is not working.

Unfortunately, many RVers often claim that their RV batteries keep dying. Why is this happening? And how can you prevent it from getting in the way of your trip? Let’s learn more.

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Proper maintenance is essential to keeping your RV battery in good condition. But even if you do everything right, your RV battery can continue to die. There are several reasons why this happens.

If you are not connected to shore power and only run on the RV battery, you may be using too much power. It is important to conserve energy when boondocking. RV batteries don’t last long when you use every appliance and have plugs at every outlet.

Depending on the battery type, you may also limit performance by using a heavy load for a short period of time. Running microwaves on lead batteries is not the same as lithium because of the Peukert effect.

Just like overcharging, undercharging your battery can lead to sulfation, or lead sulfate build-up inside the battery. Undercharging can also shorten the life of the battery or destroy it completely.

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This is only a problem with lead acid batteries as lithium is not damaged by undercharging. This is why solar energy does not work well with lead acid batteries. Often solar cells are not fully charged and can damage them.

Your battery should always be fully charged before storage. Improper charging of either type will result in shortened life.

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A flooded battery needs water to function properly, and not enough can damage it. The plate on the battery must not be left open. If necessary, add distilled water before filling.

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This is usually overlooked and is one of the reasons many AGM or lithium battery conversions are maintenance free. Note that AGMs are still the lead acid type and should and should be fully charged

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