My 2006 Bmw 325i Won T Start
My 2006 Bmw 325i Won T Start – I have a 2004 bmw 325i automatic 4 door sedan. I bought the car halfway and did a lot of repairs. Basically all new cooling system, suspension, all new seals for oil pan, vein seal, oil tank cap, sump gasket and new head cover. It was going well until Tuesday last week. It was a cold morning -25 degrees, it always starts the first time, but this morning I had to start twice. I drive to work fine and when it’s time to go home I have nothing, no noise, no click, no crank and no start, just a light on the dashboard. This car only comes with a 650CCA battery for the Walmart Everlast. I checked the voltage and it read 12.9 volts. Anyway, I bought a bigger battery from the Autozone H8-AMG thinking that would solve the problem but it didn’t.
I can open and lock the doors, open the trunk and roll the windows up and down and push the button on the keyless entry with the sunroof, but nothing happens. I don’t see my key interactions missing with EWS or if my startup is bad, any input or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
My 2006 Bmw 325i Won T Start
Is your car manual? If so, can you start it? If it’s an automatic can you use another vehicle to jump it while checking the voltage at the jumper terminals in the engine compartment?
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I followed this guide to find out that my starter was the cause of my no crank no start problem.
It’s automatic, I’ll check the voltage at the motor port. I also watch videos of children from the 50s. I think they are great. Thanks for the input.
You specify an anti-theft system that prevents this. There’s an RFID chip in your key, and an antenna ringing around the ignition switch. The key and the antenna communicate with each other to ensure that the key really belongs to the car, if the communication is not correct, the car will act as if the gear selector is out of P or N, the light will flash. Will light up. But the car cannot live. No clicks, nothing. My son’s car does this, he can open the door and do everything, but the car won’t start. He has another key that works fine, except the button for the door and trunk remote is missing, so he carries a key with a button to operate the lock, and one to start the car. And the key. He had to buy another key and code it. If you have another key, see if it starts the car. The key is the point of failure, the antenna is the point of failure. I don’t remember if you only have one key or how to disconnect the antenna. If you have two keys, and one of them starts the car, the antenna is good. If neither will start the vehicle, sounds like a bad antenna.
Thanks, I don’t have another key, but I saw a video where the car had the same specs and the guy was able to start it with a wallet key. He was then able to start the vehicle with the original key. I’m pretty sure my key has lost contact. I need to get the wallet key from the merchant. I really appreciate it. 🙏
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Scotjo said: If you can’t test the system with another key, try this EWS test in the key. Get in the car, close the door, put the key in the ignition, try turning it on, turning it off again, but don’t remove the key. Now open the door. Does the car beep at you when you leave the key in the ignition? If not, your key may have a bad EWS. If so, then it could be a bad starter, faulty ignition switch (if manual trans), selector switch (if automatic trans), or many other things. But, at least you can remove the EWS in the lock and the RWS ring antenna. Click to expand… Thanks, I’ll try and report the results.
If you can’t test the system with another key, try this EWS test key.
Get in the car, close the door, put the key in the ignition, try turning it on, turning it off again, but don’t remove the key. Now open the door. Does the car beep at you when you leave the key in the ignition? If not, your key may have a bad EWS. If so, then it could be a bad starter, faulty ignition switch (if manual trans), selector switch (if automatic trans), or many other things. But, at least you can remove the EWS in the lock and the RWS ring antenna.
Scotjo said: If you can’t test the system with another key, try this EWS test in the key. Get in the car, close the door, put the key in the ignition, try turning it on, turning it off again, but don’t remove the key. Now open the door. Does the car beep at you when you leave the key in the ignition? If not, your key may have a bad EWS. If so, then it could be a bad starter, faulty ignition switch (if manual trans), selector switch (if automatic trans), or many other things. But, at least you can remove the EWS in the lock and the RWS ring antenna. Click to expand… Well, as soon as I opened the door, the car beeped.
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I also noticed that my stereo doesn’t work, it’s stuck on the AM band, when I put the key in the ignition and turn the key to the first position, the display looks like this and it won’t let me change anything. desire ?
The live EWS data that can be obtained using BMW Scanner 1.4 is very important to solve such problems because it shows the state of every signal needed to start. See this screenshot.
Maybe the alternator, when was the last time you did the belt, alternator, battery, WP and tension? It can blow fuses such as ignition and fuel. The only way to find out why your car won’t start is to scan in the obd port above the engine exhaust. It will be scanned in person by a squab scanner or by an agent. Independent BMW specialist. Hope this helps you. – Jordan
Thanks, the battery is new 2 weeks, it has 12.9 volts, the belt was done in May, I checked the spark plug in the engine.
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Also one bar behind hand distribution box (100 and 50 amp). All the fuses I checked were good.
Dmax said: Hmmm? When an electronic problem kicks in and messes up something like a radio, it’s like a switch. Been here for a while, OP…I know I’ve read it here more than once in my few years – but I’m old and probably not thinking clearly. Click to expand… My next step is to replace the switch first and then the starter, hopefully one of those will solve my problem. I miss driving my BMW 😔
Hmmm? When it comes to electronic issues and putting something together like a radio, it always seems to be a switch.
Been here for a while, OP…I know I’ve read it here more than once in my few years – but I’m old and probably not thinking clearly.
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Yesterday I removed the air filter box so I could look at the starter and with a screwdriver and hammer I could hit the starter, the car wouldn’t crank at all but I heard a clicking sound. What I’m not sure about is why the stereo doesn’t work, there’s no music and it’s stuck on the AM band. It won’t let me into the FM group. I also don’t know if I haven’t noticed it before but when I turn the ignition key the temperature on the dashboard lights up (on the red side). Is this normal?
This is an old thread, you may not get a reply and may want to revive the old thread. Please create a new topic. I ran a test because of some battery drain still can’t find it but the car runs fine.
I have mechanical work on it and I wouldn’t call it that. I had to hire him.
He traced the battery cable all the way. The ignition switch, instrument cluster and iDrive display open. We should not have seen the battery drain.
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I had to put them back together last night. Now I find myself in a dilemma here. No dashboard.
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