How Much Install Tesla Charger
How Much Install Tesla Charger – I live in the United States of America in a residential area of a house built around 2014. So depending on where you live and the age of your home, your installation situation may be slightly different than what I’m trying to show you. I am installing a 60 amp switch so that I can get maximum power to charge my Tesla Model 3.
You can choose to install a smaller amp switch, but you will get slower charging speeds as a result. The table below shows the corresponding load rating for each circuit breaker amperage rating.
How Much Install Tesla Charger
You will notice that the switch must be greater than the maximum wattage of the wall outlet. This accounts for continuous use and allows for small power surges without tripping the breaker.
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Once the charger is connected to the car, you can always adjust the consumption from the bottom charger. For example, if you install a 50 amps switch that has a maximum output of 40 amps, you can adjust the car to charge at 32 amps or less.
However, since the maximum rating of the breaker is 50 amps, anything above 40 amps will cause the breaker to trip.
These are the charging speeds for a Gen 3 wall outlet. *Maximum charge rate is 32A (7.7kW) for standard 3 range – range up to 30 miles per hour. Source: https://www.tesla.com/support/home-charging-installation/wall-connector
There are a few things to check before you head to the home improvement store or buy your home charger. I encourage you to watch the entire video or read the entire article cover to cover before doing anything.
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My personal opinion is that “no DIY project is complete without at least 3 trips to the home improvement store.” So plan ahead so those 3 trips don’t turn into 6.
First, check and make sure your home has at least 200 amps of service. Next, figure out how to access the breaker box to run more wires. If you don’t have at least 200 amp service in your home, this is something you may want to consider.
If you have the AC running, the stove is on, there are other appliances that use a lot of electricity, and you are trying to charge your car, this can cause the main switch to trip. Regularly flipping your home’s main switch not only cuts off all electricity in your home, but is also a sign that you are using more energy than your home needs.
See this article to upgrade your home to 200 amp service. Spoiler alert, this usually costs at least a few thousand dollars and you need to get your local power company involved.
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Next, find out what type of switch box you have so you know which switch to buy. It is important to buy the right switch. An easy way to make sure you’re buying the right one is to turn off the power and then remove one of the ones currently installed on your system to take with you to the store.
So if you plan to run the line directly from the main breaker box, your local code may require you to install a breaker. This means there needs to be a mechanism to disconnect power from the charger separately from the main box. Chances are your air conditioning unit has one of these.
Do your own research and find out if county or local code requires it. You don’t have to install a full subpanel like here, you can run a box with a switch for less than $20 from Amazon or Home Depot to do that.
They are usually labeled for air conditioning use. From what I googled online, it deals with “Code 86-304 Disconnecting Means” specifically for circuits of 60 amps or more.
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I’m not an electrician, so do your own research and if you’re not 100% sure, call an electrician.
Finally, consider future-proofing this feature, especially if you already have plans to purchase a second electric vehicle.
Let’s say your spouse wants to drive your car and buy a Tesla (or any other electric vehicle). Although you can pass the charger between vehicles, if you have 2, charging is much more convenient.
2. Run an additional line of conduit or cable from the main circuit box as if you were installing a second charger from the charger.
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The first option gives you more flexibility in the long run, which is why we did it first. By running the subpanel, you can only install the charger. If you want some extra lights in the garage, maybe more outlets or 220V/240V for special appliances, this is the way to go.
A subpanel is usually only a few hundred dollars worth of material and for 99% of people this is the last time you need to go to the main breaker box for wiring.
The second option is to go ahead and install a second 60A breaker (or whatever size your power needs) in the main breaker box and set up the conduit. Then, when you’re ready to install the second charger, make a cable and connect it to the switch.
Decide where you will mount the charger. I put this piece of oak wood on my back as a decorative piece and to make it easier to assemble.
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This is a piece of oak with walnut inlays that I put together to mount this charger.
However, it is still necessary to connect a stud to the wall. The maximum height that can be mounted is 60 inches from the ground, with a minimum of 18 inches inside and a minimum of 24 inches outside, according to Tesla.
I’m going to put my charger next to my subpanel and next to this shelf. Please note that this charger needs to be connected to Wi-Fi so that you can check on your phone if there is a Wi-Fi signal where you are installing the charger. If not, consider buying a Wi-Fi network extender or changing the charger.
Now decide how to run the pipe from the box to the charger. Tesla provides instructions for routing the conduit to the bottom, top, or back of the charger. If you are running it from the back, you will need to drill a hole to accommodate the wires. Otherwise, the charger has a gasket on the top and bottom ports that defaults to the ¾ inch pipe.
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I’m going to run conduit on top of the charger next to my subpanel.
Follow the path from the box to the charger and begin making any bends needed in the pipe.
If you need to bend metal pipes, you need a pipe bender. There are many other videos on how to bend metal pipes or you can use pvc. If you’re taking your charger outside, you’ll want to check what you need to use to keep it.
To give myself some wiggle room, I leave an extra length on each end of the pipe so I can cut and mark it if necessary. Now I’ll do a quick fit test to see if it’s where it needs to be.
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Before connecting the conduit to the box, I will remove the back of the wall charger and center it on the oak and walnut.
From the looks of the included instructions, you can use the holes on the top and bottom of the charger as long as they match. It seems to be made this way to give you flexibility in how you mount it on the pin.
However, as I am attaching it to this piece of wood, I will use a total of 4 holes for a secure fit. First I line everything up, pre drill the holes and glue the back. Next, I place the piece of wood on the wall where I anticipate the studs to be, make sure it’s level, and mark the 4 corners of the wall.
Using the pin finder, I will mark the edge and/or center where the pin appears. Next, I will check the surrounding area with a stud finder to make sure there are no active AC cables.
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I use this nail technique to find the true center of the nail. Stud finders can be inaccurate and wood framing is never really straight, so this ensures I put the screw in dead center.
You can see that I start where the edges are indicated by the nail finder and then I move closer to the nail without hesitation.
Start by gently hammering the nail into the drywall until it slips into the nail. Once you find the edge, keep going until you find where it is
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