Mazda Cx 7 Battery Replacement
Mazda Cx 7 Battery Replacement – Let me help you by sending the year, make, model and engine at the beginning of your help request, follow the signs (does not start, idle, fire, etc.) next to troubleshooting codes, OK DTC, can be done by other forum members. To help you achieve a quick and easy solution!
Had an amazing car “special sale” the other day It came for a sick car and no doubt, a different engine mark The battery voltage was measured after several jumps needed and stopped when the jumper was removed
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Battery tested negative as alternative The pcm controls the alternator and the position of the alternator switch to the work switch, monitor the voltage output in the other wire. (Check the pcm cable later.)
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Long story short, I replaced the alternator and battery, and it started. I saw the battery voltage sky-rocket to 18 volts, and I started to smell slime coming from the battery.
Also looked at the scan data and saw 100% field power command for the pcm option (This may be bad old alternator and battery.) It also showed up in the scan data, the PID module voltage data showed 7-8 volts.
The result is this 10a ecm fuse, bottom right row Changed back to normal 14 volts No unusual electrical anomalies
Now we just started After the repair, the car seems to be misfiring, and it pulled circuit fault p0203 injector 3 (not there before) which I forgot and went to test. It has low power, slow and low speed Never stopped, the previous signs are different Parking test, when entering a closed loop after initiation, shows an average of 25% st without long-term correction. (Ignore it, it’s not true.)
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Intake leak suspected and back pressure test done on oxygen sensor upstream 2psi max under intake manifold, no pressure at idle Checked We have moved on engine age, mechanical engineering You can spend time on a lot of bad looking empty ads Engine checked for leaks and leaks . When the compression result is “verified”. I started at the beginning of a thin state
When checking the converter I noticed that the pcm has a business card and an ebay license And since then this thing has been in my mind I went back to scan the data and focused more on open space, closed space Finally limited to working hours
About 40 -45 seconds after starting, the car will start to open the throttle again, and the idle quality will be very painful. PID oil data is normal when the Stft off is held at 25%, but the width of the injector nozzle is normal, the amount of fuel injected is the same, and the a / f o2 appears to be rotating. When it enters the open loop, all PID data is a cyclic function, which looks like 0ms injector pulse width, injection rate 0mg/s, and o2 sensor volts/amps pinned. The required equity ratio is 2.0
This is some kind of weak fire engine or weak ebay pcm oil strategy that makes me pull my hair out I hope I can get more information about the release Let’s talk about it Cld / open loop s *** Here are some storm shots
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Maybe try disconnecting the converter to avoid the AC ripple problem Like it never happened before Looks like an eBay specific ecm problem to me Check the power id/board and make sure nothing funny happens with them There id started….
What a train wreck! 😆 It’s not your fault, just marketing BS As far as I know, now with the fuel injectors, do you still get the P0203? Or another code?
I have doubts that PCM may be instinctive, but at first it strikes me as a standard strategy to respond to conflict. PID requested a ‘target AFR’ of 2.00 (stupid lean), and got it. I think this is standard because I have seen many Honda engines that react to fire Once the Type A is set to go out of commission, they remove all the fuel from that bank and leave it running for the rest of the main cycle.
No code other than p0300 After thinking about how to attack this thing all day, I decided to stay longer after work and go into the injector fault diagnosis. I thought with you, Tyler, about the strategy for fighting the fire
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There is no power from the pcm, and in this system it appears that both injector wires are controlled by the pcm. Electrical measurement of the four injector resistance, injector surge, continuity between PCM and injector harness, short to ground or affected wire; All checked. Here are some photos with two waves
It’s on one injector on both sides, it looks like I forgot the two injectors share the ground. I guess that’s why I see two patterns? I do not know..
Checked both sides of inj 3, nothing works on one I wonder if Eng 2 also has problems, because it shares a wire with 3 Who knows
Advise the customer that he really needs the pcm to fix another problem and also do the clsd loop He has been dying for this car since he got it 3 days ago, but hopefully he won’t have time to post a good wave when he decides to fix it .
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I don’t know much about injection electronics : Blush: I also don’t know how the resistance measurement is valid in these injectors, but based on the checks you have done I tend to suspect a bad injector.
Again, not a nitpick, but maybe this system is strong? But the country? I always heard that PCM has two high voltage transformers and they are distributed But as I said, I am very weak in DI :wake:
I’m not sure about the circuit diagram on the Gdi injector I’ve seen this video before but I’ll check the gdi part and rethink everything I’m sure the pcm is bad, but I have no knowledge here It makes me scratch my head a bit, this car is too small with me don’t let it be easy to explain
But after checking everything last night, I ran my diagnostics and kept the car until the PC arrived on Monday. Started this morning and waiting for the wrong entry type Never idle, never misfired, clsd loop, great fuel cut No fine adjustment on st, 0% on lt Turns on the block and faster Will probably take it for a test drive today, hope it doesn’t fail
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99% good I checked with a multimeter while on the injector harness before disconnecting the pcm, I don’t understand how to fix it myself how do I disconnect and connect the pcm connection.
I’m going to go back to the shop today and get some “known” injector sizes as everything looks normal now. Maybe try some wiggle harness around the injector and PCM plug We’ll see.
Gazzuto wrote: But after checking everything last night, I removed my diagnostics and took the car back until the PC arrived on Monday. Started this morning and waiting for wrong entry type Never idle, never misfired, clsd loop, great fuel cut No fine adjustment on st, 0% on lt Turns the block on and faster Will probably take it for a test drive today, hope it doesn’t break I’m 99% good, I checked with a multimeter while on the injector harness before disconnecting the pcm, I don’t understand how to fix it myself by disconnecting and reconnecting the pcm. Random little tidbit I left a bent pin in another PCm connector port, brake switch 2. The lead connector broke in the pcm connector port where the injector is located If I stop the dlc link anywhere it will be a problem to communicate with the car Never check all the wires and grounds in the pcm until you find the acm wire is blown. 5v ref done well First there is an intake cam solenoid code
: lol: It’s a Mazda package deal : silly: Yes, I think the injectors are bad out I think there may be some problems, but it will take time to develop Maybe it’s someone concerned about the PCM and connection?
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Maybe that, along with the waveform you took earlier, will explain why the PCM connection is working?
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