How To Put Dryer Belt On Pulley

How To Put Dryer Belt On Pulley – If your dryer is squeaking, the idler pulley may be worn. An indication that it is an idler pulley is that the squeaking sound occurs at a high frequency (because the pulley rotates several times with each revolution of the drum). My GE dryer model DCVH515EF0WW was making more noise than I thought it would. I replaced the front drum but there is still noise. You can read how to install front slide drums here:

While I was replacing the rear bearing, I thought I’d go ahead and replace the idler pulley and belt as well. Sign up to change…

How To Put Dryer Belt On Pulley

How to identify your GE dryer model: Open the door and look in the lower right corner of the dryer opening:

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If it’s a dryer like mine, you’re running on 220V, but be sure to unplug it before you start to avoid electric shock.

Step 2: Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the top edge of the back of the front panel.

Once you remove these three screws, you can insert your fingers into the seam and slide the edge towards the back of the dryer.

Lift the front edge of the top panel, slide the panel forward, and remove the top panel.

Dryer Repair Belt Idler Pulley Drum Roller For Whirlpool Replace Parts

You need to disconnect three cable connectors before you go. One of these is the computer type connection for the controls, one for the lights, and one for the door light switch (the last two tabs need to be lifted up to disconnect):

I placed one finger on the left side of the ribbon cable and the other on the right side of the black connector and wiggled the connector and pulled to remove it. Be careful as you may stretch the ribbon connector. I disassembled my dryer about 4 times and one of the clips on the end that held the black connections together started to separate. Be careful and wiggle the connector when pulling.

The other two links are similar in that you need to take the “package” and break it down into pieces as shown below:

As you can see below, I found it easier to remove these by supporting the front edge of the dryer with a screwdriver box. Loosen but do not remove the front panel screws. Unless you loosen them enough, almost a quarter of an inch, you won’t be able to lift the panel up and remove it (I ran into this problem).

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After removing the top front screws, you will want to press the front panel onto the dryer and close the dryer door.

Lift the front panel and release the two bottom sides you loosened in step 7. Remember this because the door will want to open (which will cause the front panel to fall forward).

While you’re here you should take a look at the slide reel. In the picture below the drum is marked with arrows:

The OEM drums should look like this, the first two should be dark:

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These two are already finished. As you can see in the image below, the top and bottom slides are free. If it is to be replaced at the factory, the upper part must be a dark colored material. I bought third party slides from Amazon and since they were made of a softer material they became useless and wore out in less than a month. They are loud too. But if you have a separate dryer, you should replace them if they wear out during your stay:

If your drum slides are worn, be sure to replace them. You can find the code numbers and all the steps to change them (they are easy) in my article:

We need to remove the dryer so we can access the bearing that is attached to the back of the drum, so we need to cut the idler pulley belt so we can free the drum from the dryer. You can see the idler pulley in the lower left corner, just above the fan:

If you shine a flashlight there and look at the triangle holding it up you’ll see this:

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To remove the belt by pulling the handle, pull the pull handle to release the belt and detach the belt as shown below:

Move the belt to the right of the pulley and make sure it is not on the motor shaft:

Also make sure the belt is not screwed onto the motor shaft, which is not shown in the picture below.

Use the strap to lift the back of the dryer, pushing the drum straight forward while holding the front lip with your fingers. If you have not removed the belt from the idler pulley and motor shaft, then you will have a problem. Here you can see how I supported the back of the drum:

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If your vacuum cleaner is coming apart, you need to vacuum the inside of the dryer. Lint accumulated around our dryer:

The tension roller will slide immediately. Here is a replacement for the original (yell0w). They are slightly different, but the key fits perfectly into the frame and most importantly:

The only thing I would say is that the nut will continue to go further (too tight) so you need to be careful how tight you tighten it.

One thing to keep in mind is that the new belt will be shorter due to the stretching of the old belt:

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Grasp the drum by the belt, which is the grooved part of the drum, and insert the belt into the groove closest to the back of the drum (you can see the wear on the drum to indicate the correct location):

Support the back of the drum with a belt, slide the drum into the dryer. You will need to extend the sides of the dryer to fit the drum between them.

It will take some patience to align the drum with the retainer so that the bearing fits into place. Be careful not to “stab” the dryer with the bearings or you may damage them. You’ll know you’ve put the bearing in storage when you have the following clearance at the top of the drum (and use this image to guide you when reinstalling the drum):

First make sure the belt is made correctly and is facing the drum. The belt should go into the slot closest to the back of the dryer, with the back of the belt facing the drum, as shown below:

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Here’s what I set up to access the belt and reattach it to the motor and ruby:

The strap may seem too short, but it will fit. First, insert the belt into the engine, secondly, bend the ruby, and thirdly, slide the belt over the protrusion of the edge of the pulley:

If the chain is installed correctly, when the drum rotates (with the support of the front of the drum), the machine will also rotate, as it is directly connected to the motor shaft:

You should slide the two “holes” under the two screws you loosened in step 7.

Dryer Belt & Pulley Installation Help

When you lean over the front of the dryer, you need to move the cords out of the way so they don’t hit the drum and hold the drum so it slides into the bed. meeting:

You also need to line up the curved line on both edges of the front panel with the notches on both sides of the dryer. I need to press both sides of the dryer to the same line (both sides are the same):

These connectors only go one way; one has 3 wires and the other has 2 wires, so you can’t mix them:

There is a hole on the bottom edge of the control panel above the metal protrusion of the dryer as shown below:

Dryer Belt Replacement Whirlpool Guide

Here the control panel is located on the back of the case (arrows indicate the location of the control panel on the edge of the metal frame):

Reconnect the control panel ribbon cable. There is a notch on the female (dryer) side to fit the part coming out of the nozzle, so it only installs in one direction:

There are two “snaps” that connect to the underside of the top metal panel (marked below). Attach the back of the dryer’s top panel and slide it back toward the center of the dryer; Once it is in place, you can install it.

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